CRY TWICE

Once coming to Dhaka and another leaving...
FOREIGNERS' VIEWS
of Bangladesh 

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

Written by: Caroline Schneider

"What are you doing in Dhaka besides working?" Many of my friends ask, somehow expecting that I miss the cultural offers, the hang-outs, the clubs in Germany and Europe. Living and working in Dhaka since march make me realize that I can't complain about boredom, but feel that once in a while you can't decide where to go first!

By the time I have grown really fond of these cosy cafè lounges in Dhanmondi, Banani and Gulshan. Cafe Mango in Dhanmondi offers great fruit lassies and brownies, Coffee World in Banani serves fabulous frappes and Cofi 11 in Gulshan 2 truely became my second home. Spending some good quality time with my friends at Kozmo in Dhanmondi is always fun, especially when there are bands such as Surrogate performing. It is a nice crowd there and you come in touch with (the) people quite easily.

It is really tempting to go out for dinner every evening and enjoy the variety of restaurants that offer delicious and exotic food. Some of my favourite places to go are the vietnamese restaurant Le Saigon in Gulshan, where I am regularly fall in love with crabmeat pancakes, and Sura, a Korean restaurant in Gulshan 2. Nevertheless, Dhanmondi attracts with restaurants such as Voot, too.

It is defenitely refreshing and impressive as well to indulge in the local art scene. There are exhibitions of all kinds on a regular basis, and I love to spend some time at the Art Club in Gulshan 2, or the Shipakala Academy. Quite recently I visited the exhibition in the National Gallery which absolutely bears comparison with modern art exhibitons in my homecountry Germany. Well established artists such as Rafi Hoque presented their works.

If you didn't spend all your money on art, there is always the option to buy fabrics at Jatra and Aranya, both located at Kemal Ataturk Avenue. Here you find unique handmade fabrics and support the "Revival of Natural Dyes in Bangladesh".

Even though Dhaka misses clubs such as the Cocoon in Frankfurt or Pacha in Ibiza, you will always find opportunities to party. Coming together at privat parties or joining the crowd at one of the Regency events have been a lot of fun so far.

All in all you can defenitely enjoy a Dolce Vita in Dhaka, meet cosmopolitan people, fall in love with the city, and ... always expect the unexpected! 

CRY TWICE

BANGLADESH: MY LOVE-STORY

written by: Hansine Benoit

My first trip to Bangladesh was in the summer of 1997; I came to visit my sister who has been working here for the past 11 years. I still remember how I felt when I stepped out of the airport: I was bewitched! Few years and 2 trips later, in 2003, I decided to put down my suitcases and I have been here ever since!

Over the past 4 years I have been working for different buying houses, and that has taken a lot of my time! So it is always nice to see friends at night and meet new people; I usually do some sport, hang out and party at expatriate clubs. I find myself pretty much comfortable sitting at the International Club, where I used to throw the "Thirsty Thursdays" parties. For fine dining I truly love to recommend "Samdo" restaurant in Gulshan, where the enjoyment goes with the fabulous cooking and the nice interior.  On the other hand I have to admit that the best food I tasted in Dhaka is the street food! It offers a huge variety; you can buy it at any time and really everywhere. Once a while I like to shopping at "Bongo Bazar", which is near New Market and nice to visit. The crowd is pushing you into a flow and besides going for your own new dress, one can enjoy colourful outlets, too.

Besides of work, parties and trips outside of Dhaka, I love to relax during a beauty treatment, too. Therefore I advise to go to "Studio Salon" in Gulshan, where I feel renewed and reenergized after a relaxing pedicure.

From the time when I got to know how to dress up in a sari I became even more fond of typical Bengali events, such as locals weddings that I like a lot and give me a true "Bengali experience"! What's more about getting out of Dhaka for a trip to view Bangladesh's beautiful landscape? I am glad I had the chance to take a winter road-trip to Srimangal with a few friends, and it was such a nice break! The countryside with its beautiful tea gardens is really peaceful! I felt like I was someplace else! I have made a short trip to Comilla as well, and it was a great human experience above all, as I got to be in some villages to the contact of people and visit their homes.

I consider Bangladesh as my 2nd country; it has seen me grow up, as much as I have seen the country develop in the past 10 years! The streets are colourful, animated and people are kind-hearted; they have such a great sense of hospitality! But, what strikes me the most is the pride Bangladeshis have in their heritage, their culture and above all their country.

Dhaka Maslin - Jamdani

The best quality of maslins were produced in the district of Dhaka in eastern Bengal, where a particularly well-known centre of production was Sonargaon, situated at a distance of 15 miles east of the city of Dhaka. The exquisite quality of the Dhaka maslins owed a great deal to a particularly high grade of cotton grown in a small and narrow belt in the district, which happened to posses the right soil. The staple varieties of maslins procured by the Europeans were Khasa and Malmal. Usually, both these were plain maslins but could be brocaded in gold, silver or silk threads in floral patterns. Less frequently they were instead embroidered in coloured silks in chain-stitch, in gold and silver threads or in cotton itself, which is what lead to the “chikan” embroidery. Many had gold woven borders.

Dhaka was the seat of Fashion dating back to 4th Century BC. The earliest known writings mentioning the use of Maslin from Bengal appeared in Kautiliya’s Arthashastra that referred to the superior cotton fabrics of “Vanga”. Magesthenes, the Greek ambassador to the court of Chandragupta Maurya in the 5th Century, was noted to wear magnificent robes of flowered maslins to the royal courts. The famous transparent maslin was at one time known as “ab-e-rawan or flowing water. Several references to the fine maslins of Bengal are available in the travel accounts of Marco Polo while traveling in Asia. He mentions this closely woven transparent cloth being traded in Constantinople, Turkey as “mousselini di Bangala”.  Trade records of travelers from China, West Asia and Europe bear testimony to richness of Dhaka’s cloth trade an its superlative weaving techniques of the day.

This particular weave is famous for its intricacy of motifs, the sheerness and the exclusive lace-like texture which is unique in its beauty. The Jamdani is considered an heirloom to be handed down by generation to generation of stylish women since time immemorial.

Jamdani is Persian for woven “floral” motifs. The mastery of this Bangladeshi weave is the geometric patterns embossed in perfection by two weavers sitting at tandem on the very simple wooden loom. Each length of thread merges in with the weft and additional thread is added until the motif is completed.  The same fine quality of thread is utilized for the embossing pattern to double the texture of the motif and yet barely discernable to the touch.  Jamdani patterns are akin to the “kilim” designs from Turkey - the patterns seen in woolen carpets and rugs. However in the maslin weave, the geometric patterns are refined and made diminutive to become an adornment to the fine, transparent lace-like maslin.  The motifs were introduced for enhancing the beauty of Maslin but also to render the fine fabric more demure. As lifelike forms in woven patterns are not be acceptable for prayers in the maslim tradition, the Jamdani motifs were fashioned in the forms of flowers and leaves.

Jamdani motifs were introduced to Dhaka’s sheer maslin round about the 15th century by the Moghul Empress Nur Jehan to enhance the sheerness of the fine cotton weave. The Master (ustad), even today, utilizes a memorized verbal instruction called “buli” to his assistant (hargid) who follows the master’s lead very carefully.

The patterns are elaborate and diverse in decorative floral geometrical motifs and they vary from one set of weavers to the next. Traditional designs and patterns have acquired indigenous names drawn from everyday life and the weaver’s perception of colours and mixtures.

The motifs range between three thousand to five thousand diverse patterns and have never really been documented. Therefore each motif remains the proprietary expertise of certain families who have been weaving for generations. Since the Moghul courts of Delhi, the Jamdani has maintained its status as the ultimate fashion statement amongst connoisseurs of fine fabrics.

Today, a Jamdani sari is a discerning woman's pride. Bangladesh is the home of the Jamdani weave which is considered the heritage of Bengal.

CRY TWICE

Dhaka - My New Hot Spot

By: Heather Bretzfield

I moved to Dhaka just over two years ago after spending the majority of my life in glamorous Southern California.  Before Arriving in Dhaka I didn't know what to expect as far as a social life goes.  My biggest questions before stepping off the plane were, "Would I be still be able to go lunching at posh restaurants? Can I still get dolled up and meet my friends for a night out on the town?  Is there a beauty parlor to take care of my hair and nails?"  To my excitement, the answers were all "Yes"!  In fact, on a weekly basis there is often something to do on most any given day or night of the week catering to a variety of interests. 

Girls Lunch Date:  I love lunching at Chit Chat at the Radisson.  This deli is great because I can eat a light lunch of a gourmet salad and fresh fruit overlooking the sparkling pool. The tables are spread out enough that you feel like your conversations will not be over heard. After lunch I wander around the hotel grounds and lobby area because it is a fabulous place to people watch!

Best Beauty Parlor:  I tell all my friends that I really don't care which parlor I go to because there are so many of them with great staff that cater to your every beauty need!  However, the parlor that I am most fond of is Avera in Baridhara.  From the entrance you feel like you are transported into Thailand.  Calming music is playing in the background while you get your manicure/pedicure and hot oil hair treatments.  It also smells like an array of exotic essential oils.  I leave Avera feeling refreshed and revitalized.

Best Night on the Town:  I have to admit; the best parties are the private, "guest list only" that don't even get started until well beyond midnight.  This is where the who's who in Dhaka love to mingle and drink champagne!  However, any party thrown by JPR Events is surly a hit!  I also love going to parties at the International Club because the music is fantastic and there are new people to meet everywhere you turn.

My life in Dhaka is certainly exciting!  I feel thankful to have wonderful friends who have similar interested that I do.

Dhaka Maslin - Jamdani

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